Vindur and Gola: Choosing a Size and Modifying for Your Body Shape!
Have you seen my new sweaters Vindur and Gola?
They are the same basic pattern, but Vindur is in bulky weight and Gola in DK weight.
Vindur and Gola are constructed in a simple but unusual way: First the right arm is worked from the cuff to the underarm and a short row sleeve cap is worked. Then stitches are provisionally cast on for the front and back. The shoulder is then worked and the stitches are split for neckline shaping. The front and back are worked at the same time and rejoined to work the left shoulder. The front and back stitches are put on holders, and a short row sleeve cap is worked. Next, the left sleeve is worked to the wrist. You then have something that looks like this:
Finally, the sweater is folded in half, and these two halves are joined together by a garter stitch side seam that is worked perpendicularly to them. These start at the hem and end at the cuff of the sleeve joining the front and the back of the sweater and sleeve together.
The first decision you have to make is what size works for your body?
The pattern includes a detailed schematic (above) and lots of measurements (below) take the time to compare these to YOUR body when choosing a size!
Grab a measuring tape and measure yourself at your full bust.
Vindur and Gola are designed with 3 inches of positive ease, so choose your size based on your measurement, and the sweater will have 3 inches of each (extra fabric) at the bust and hip.
Example:
If your bust measures 40.5 inches make the Medium, not the Large... the large will be comfortable in the bust area, but the shoulders will be too big.
Example:Here's me in two different sizes of Gola, I have a 32" bust.
This version is a small, you can see that the shoulder drops down a bit, but it is still flattering.
So, you've chosen your size, but how is the length for your body?
This is important.... not everyone has the same waistline and what is flattering on one person is not going to work on another body type.
Example:
My friend Rebecca was totally excited to knit Vindur for Rhinebeck this year, she chose the correct bust size, got gauge, cast on and KNIT... but her torso is WAY longer than the schematic called for and her sweater ended up looking a wee bit short on her. When she knits her next one she is going to add some length.
So, grab a measuring tape. and measure from about an inch below your armpit to where you want the longer side to hit. Then check the schematic (C). The asymmetry is written so that the shorter side (D) is 5 inches less than that. Use the measuring tape to check that measurement as well on your left side.
Example:
You want your sweater to be 2 inches longer (what I think Rebecca should do):
Take your stitch gauge (which is 3 sts per inch for Vindur) and multiply that by 2, which is 6 sts.
So, add 6 sts to your provisional cast on when you set up for each side of the body, VOILA! You now have a sweater that is 2 inches longer!!!
(If you are working Vindur stitch gauge is 4.25 sts/in so you would add 9 sts)
You will then have extra rows to work on the side panels, so be sure to add those in.
My hips are a bit more generous than allowed for in the schematic, what should I do?
If your hips are more generous, you can make the side panels wider and decrease them down as you go towards the bust. The side panel starts at 3.5 inches at the hip and goes down to 1 inch at the sleeve. Keep an eye on this measurement if you add significant length to your piece as your measurement at your upper hip might be smaller than farther down : )! (I know once my bum is part of the equation this measurement increases)
Example: "Clarissa" is making the Small but her hip is 38 inches without any ease.
Clarissa needs to add in 2 more inches (the small as written has a 39 inch hip with 3 inches ease). Clarissa will add 1 inch to each side panel, if she is making Gola she would add 4 sts to each side panel and for Vindur she would add 3 sts.
But what if you don't want an asymmetrical hemline?
All you have to do is ignore the directions for the hemline shaping…. Then it will go straight across the bottom. I did that with my Vindur for Yoga, you can read more about that in this blog post.
Any Questions?
Ask below... I am happy to help and don't forget there are KAL's for Vindur and Gola in my Ravelry group!
Vindur KAL
Gola KAL
 |  |
Vindur and Gola are constructed in a simple but unusual way: First the right arm is worked from the cuff to the underarm and a short row sleeve cap is worked. Then stitches are provisionally cast on for the front and back. The shoulder is then worked and the stitches are split for neckline shaping. The front and back are worked at the same time and rejoined to work the left shoulder. The front and back stitches are put on holders, and a short row sleeve cap is worked. Next, the left sleeve is worked to the wrist. You then have something that looks like this:
Finally, the sweater is folded in half, and these two halves are joined together by a garter stitch side seam that is worked perpendicularly to them. These start at the hem and end at the cuff of the sleeve joining the front and the back of the sweater and sleeve together.
The first decision you have to make is what size works for your body?
The pattern includes a detailed schematic (above) and lots of measurements (below) take the time to compare these to YOUR body when choosing a size!
Vindur and Gola are designed with 3 inches of positive ease, so choose your size based on your measurement, and the sweater will have 3 inches of each (extra fabric) at the bust and hip.
Example:
If your bust measures 40.5 inches make the Medium, not the Large... the large will be comfortable in the bust area, but the shoulders will be too big.
This version is an XS and you can see that the shoulder fits perfectly....
This version is a small, you can see that the shoulder drops down a bit, but it is still flattering. This is important.... not everyone has the same waistline and what is flattering on one person is not going to work on another body type.
Example:
My friend Rebecca was totally excited to knit Vindur for Rhinebeck this year, she chose the correct bust size, got gauge, cast on and KNIT... but her torso is WAY longer than the schematic called for and her sweater ended up looking a wee bit short on her. When she knits her next one she is going to add some length.
Example:
You want your sweater to be 2 inches longer (what I think Rebecca should do):
Take your stitch gauge (which is 3 sts per inch for Vindur) and multiply that by 2, which is 6 sts.
So, add 6 sts to your provisional cast on when you set up for each side of the body, VOILA! You now have a sweater that is 2 inches longer!!!
(If you are working Vindur stitch gauge is 4.25 sts/in so you would add 9 sts)
You will then have extra rows to work on the side panels, so be sure to add those in.
My hips are a bit more generous than allowed for in the schematic, what should I do?
If your hips are more generous, you can make the side panels wider and decrease them down as you go towards the bust. The side panel starts at 3.5 inches at the hip and goes down to 1 inch at the sleeve. Keep an eye on this measurement if you add significant length to your piece as your measurement at your upper hip might be smaller than farther down : )! (I know once my bum is part of the equation this measurement increases)
Example: "Clarissa" is making the Small but her hip is 38 inches without any ease.
Clarissa needs to add in 2 more inches (the small as written has a 39 inch hip with 3 inches ease). Clarissa will add 1 inch to each side panel, if she is making Gola she would add 4 sts to each side panel and for Vindur she would add 3 sts.
But what if you don't want an asymmetrical hemline?
All you have to do is ignore the directions for the hemline shaping…. Then it will go straight across the bottom. I did that with my Vindur for Yoga, you can read more about that in this blog post.
Any Questions?
Ask below... I am happy to help and don't forget there are KAL's for Vindur and Gola in my Ravelry group!
Vindur KAL
Gola KAL
After making Vindur, the main change I would make if/when I make Gola is to make the sleeves shorter. Would you recommend spacing the increases closer together so that I have the same # of sts when I get to the body portion? Or just taking out some rows and having fewer sts?
ReplyDeleteI would take out a few rows and make the decreases closer together, but first I would look at your Vindur and try to determine why they are too long? Do they measure what is in the schematic? Is your row gauge "on" for them?
DeleteYou're right, I should verify that. But, I strongly suspect that the sleeves are just too long for my arm length. I often find the sleeves on store-bought tops are too long for me. I'm 5'3" and have shorter arms compared to the size I wear that relates to my bust size. Before starting Vindur I thought, I bet the arms will be too long, but I didn't want to bother customizing.
DeleteI hear ya! It is always worth taking the time to compare your body measurements to the schematic before casting on!
DeleteAmazing post Laura - exactly what I needed to know!! I've not knit a sweater for myself and I believe Vindur will be my first. Thank you for the additional encouragement.
ReplyDeleteOh, I am honored that you've chosen Vindur as your first sweater.... what a blast! Please do let me know if you have any questions! The KAL in my Rav group is great and will help too!
DeleteAny idea how much yarn is required to knit the side panels? I'm making xs (vertical stripes).
ReplyDeleteHa! That's me! I just came across this post by way of your new pattern in knitty. I haven't yet reknit the sweater, but someday I will!
ReplyDelete